Eating in Japan – Part 2: Soba and Udon Noodles
In my previous post, I talked about the prevalence of rice
and fish in Japanese food, an aspect which did not come as much of a surprise
to me and which dominates food culture here. However, since arriving in Japan,
the food group which I have personally eaten most and loved most is noodles.
With a few notable exceptions, noodles in Japan are served
in large deep bowls of hot broth, often with toppings or accompaniments. When I
visited Japan as a tourist last year in the heat and incredible humidity of
summer, leaning over a steaming bowl of soup in a crowded restaurant did not
seem like an appealing way to eat. However, since the temperature has dropped a
little, and I’ve left the bustle of Tokyo behind, noodles have become my
favourite thing to eat. They are comforting, nourishing and flavoursome, and it
rarely costs more than a fiver for a (huge) full meal. There a few different types,
so in the next few posts I’ll try to give you a flavour of my favourite ones.
Soba
During my first visit to Japan, we discovered a great little
soba cafe near to Logan’s workplace which was perfect for our lunchtime meet-ups
(before I had a job!). It had a simple menu, which we could just about read,
and it played music-box versions of Studio Ghibli soundtracks, which was
delightful. This was where I first tried soba noodles, a type of medium
thickness noodles made from buckwheat. You can eat soba hot or cold, which
makes them perfect for summer. My favourite order is cold soba noodles with hot
duck soup. The noodles are served on a sort of bamboo or plastic mesh over a
large plate, which allows any moisture to drain off the noodles, and stops them
sticking to the plate. The soup is served in a small dish, more like a large
mug, often with a lid. There is usually also a dish of wasabi and sliced spring
onions. You add the seasonings to the soup and then pick up the noodles with
chopsticks, dip them in the soup and then eat them. I think it’s much easier to
eat cold noodles than hot, because there’s no danger of flicking hot soup into
your eyes as you take time to perfect your noodle-eating technique!
Soba noodles served this way are delicious with just the
soup, and you get a pretty generous portion, but if you want to, you can order
tempura on the side. Tempura is crispy golden battered things, usually fish or
vegetables, and it’s served with its own dipping sauce. I find it pretty hard
to resist ordering one or two pieces of tempura pumpkin; the pumpkin goes so
soft and slightly sweet compared to the crispy batter.
Udon
Udon noodles are usually served in the same restaurants that
serve soba. (Point to mention: restaurants in Japan are generally distinguished
by type of food rather than country or whatever – so instead of an Indian, an
Italian and a pub, there’ll be a ramen place, a sushi place and a soba/udon
place) Udon noodles are really thick, white noodles, served hot or cold, a lot
like soba. In general, I have eaten soba noodles cold and udon hot. I found
udon really difficult to eat at first, because they are thick and served in a
piping hot soup, which makes them difficult to slurp properly. I think I’m
getting the hang of it now though.
Udon can be served or dipped into the same sorts of soup or
broth as soba noodles, and are equally served with tempura on the side. In
addition to these styles, you can also find curry udon, where the noodles are
served in a big bowl of curry sauce, with pieces of onion, beef and carrot.
Curry udon is absolutely scrumptious. The curry is only a little bit spicy, dark
in colour and about as thick as the average Indian curry in the UK. The taste
is rich and warming. It’s a real comforting dish for winter. Apparently, udon
is also considered to have a number of health benefits, not to mention being an
ideal cure for a hangover. If you don’t fancy curry, the main alternative broth
is dashi-based, and may contain all sorts of things: tofu, yuba, an egg (most
likely served raw to poach in the hot broth), wakame (thick, dark green
seaweed), prawns, and so on.
Next post: Ramen!
We ate so many noddles in Japan, they're definitely one of my favourites.
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